Monday, August 15, 2016

So we've come...to the end...of the road

Greetings from Border Friendship Monument and Park!  The two fences (which prevent access to the monument) make that name feel pretty Orwellian.  But politics aside, I've reached the end of the United States.  Pretty cool!  When I was debating staying in LA vs pushing for San Diego, Alicia said that I'd be happier if I made it to the border.  And, as always, she is correct.  

Not much at the border but the fence and a beach and some border patrol agents.  There is some sort of resort on the other side and I got to shake someone's hand through the fence and have a conversation in terrible Spanish.  That was kind of cool.  

It was 20 miles from downtown to the border, and as much as I hate backtracking, I had to ride all the way back to San Diego.  Dropped the bike off at a bike shop for boxing and shipping.  Currently grabbing a beer then taking a cab to the airport and flying home!   

So, this is Dave, signing off from San Diego!

Coronado Ferry

Just took the ferry across the bay to Coronado.  Now down Silver Strand Beach and off to the border!

Saturday, August 13, 2016

First sign to San Diego!

Post-LA update

After stressing for much of yesterday about my lack of a place to stay in Santa Monica, I finally found a host by calling some available phone numbers for nearby Warm Showers hosts.  I walked the pier and rode the roller coaster there - not a big one but it circles the rest of the park so that's kind of cool.  Ate a mediocre burrito and headed to the host's address in Marina Del Rey.  

I met him at a gate by the water, thinking he'd come out of the nearby apartments, but instead came up from the dock - he lives on a boat, which would be my home for the night.  How cool is that!

Over time I've noticed a strange correlation between how desperate you are for lodging and how spectacular the resulting place is.  Not in the way that food tastes better when you're hungry, but in an absolute sense.  Some of my favorite places I've stayed, both indoors and out, were found later in the day when I was starting to stress about things.  I think part of it is that, when the usual places are lacking, you need to look for somewhat different solutions, and that often leads to a more unique experience. 

So.  After relatively toodling along with the plan to end in Los Angeles, I have reached LA with a few days to spare.  I plan to continue enjoying the beaches every day (for example Seal Beach, where I am now) but I'm on my way to San Diego!  

And if I have just a bit of extra time:

Thursday, August 11, 2016

Interesting "camping" spot

I hung around Santa Barbara until this afternoon (because why not?).  Carpinteria State Beach had a campground but was only 10 miles away.  I did stop there for a swim and a shower but wanted to bike more.  Emma Wood State Beach was another 15 miles but was possibly just for RVs, and had no services at all, including bathrooms and water.  I looked at Warm Showers and found some hosts in Ventura, about 17 miles away.  The one that responded runs a coffeeshop downtown and let's cyclists set up on the patio once the shop closes.  So here I am, with a tent on a patio in downtown Ventura as traffic zooms by.  Ahhh bike touring. 

But get this - the fair is in town!  I'm mere steps from Ventura Fairgrounds, where I will be heading shortly to enjoy all that the Ventura County Fair has to offer!

The bicycle touring gods were pleased

Two days ago I was leaving Lompoc and heading back to the coast.  Looking at the map, there was a beach and campground at Gaviota, the first place I reach the coast, but not necessarily a hiker/biker site.  10 miles farther was Refugio Beach, which definitely had a hiker/biker.  I also figured that 10 miles along the shore would be nicer in the relatively warm early evening, instead of the cool and foggy morning.  

Anyway, I checked out Gaviota when I arrived and it looked ok - nice beach, clean campground - so I asked about camping and it turned out that they did have hiker/biker sites, so I decided to stay and have a more relaxed evening.  Exactly as I made that decision, three cyclist rolled in - the same three that I had briefly met in Big Sur who were heading north then back to Los Angeles.  They had a friend arriving by car with firewood, food, and beer.  So, I ended up spending the night at a little BBQ party in Gaviota.  Good thing I decided to stay!

Photo is the 800-foot train trestle at Gaviota.  I was surprised when an Amtrak train went across, I had assumed it wasn't an active track!

Wednesday, August 10, 2016

Tuesday, August 9, 2016

A shower!

First in a few days.  You know how, when you're really hungry, you might say that the meal you ate is the best tasting food you've ever had?  Last night I was the cleanest person on Earth.  

Pismo Beach

Sound familiar?

Here's why:

And perhaps:

Or this:

Big Sur recap

Big Sur was an awesome ride - from Carmel to San Simeon, with one night camping on top of a bluff in the middle - might rival last year's ride from Tuolumne Meadows down to Yosemite Valley.  

And it ended kinda suddenly.  You come around a corner and there is more of a plain between you and the water than usual.  That plain widens and widens, and a few miles later you look back and the mountains are behind you, hidden in fog.  No sign saying "Now Leaving Big Sur" or "Enjoy This One Last Cliff-Top Ocean View".

But I've noticed that feeling in the past.  You come down from the mountains, or turn in from the water, or enter town after crossing some barren stretch, and you miss it instantly.  You feel like the best part of the trip just ended and now you're stuck in whatever crappy place you're in.  But that feeling lasts very briefly - before you know it you're on to the next adventure.  It might not be Big Sur, but hey, all these beach towns are pretty nice!

Saturday, August 6, 2016

Campground not on fire

Just confirmed - my destination campground is not on fire, and is open for camping.  There is a huge fire in Big Sur - it doesn't seem to be affecting the coast but all the parks in the area are closed.  

Good sign

Carmel-by-the-sea

A house like this requires a lot of faith that both the water and land are going to remain where they currently are. 

Friday, August 5, 2016

Looking south

Going around 17-mile drive in Monterey.  Here is my first view of the coast south of the peninsula.

Now this is a bike path

Approaching Monterey

Artichokes

So THAT'S how they grow

Strawberries

Infinite strawberry field in Watsonville.  Being picked now.  Smells like, well, strawberries. 

Items I have forgotten

Maps
Batteries (headlamp is dead)
Soap
Matches

I got matches at the campground and Alicia sent me pictures of my map.  I will pick up some batteries today.  And everyone wins when I find some soap.

New Brighton Beach State Park

My home for the night.  Campground was full (and probably had been reserved months ago) but I waltzed right in to the hiker/biker campsite for $5.  These spots are really wonderful, as it's pretty impossible to know where I'll be two nights from now, and even that is moot if the campgrounds have been booked since March.  

The beach here faces south so there was no sunset to see, but I did hang out at the beach around dusk and it was very lovely.  Fell asleep around 9:30 and woke up to the sounds of crashing waves - the campground is on a bluff just above the water.  I see no reason why I won't have something similar every night this trip.  

Thursday, August 4, 2016

Pacific Ocean

So much easier than starting in Boston!

Good Vibes Only

A good omen.  Especially since I just realized that I left those ACA maps in San Jose!

Highest point already?

There is a lot of up and down along the coast but not much total elevation - the highest point will be under 1000 feet, I think.  I had to get over the Santa Cruz Mountains from San Jose, so here I am on Skyline Drive after climbing up Congress Springs Rd (highway 9 from Saratoga).  Not sure of the elevation but I think it's around 2000'.  I may take some detours inland farther on (will let you know) but this may be the tops. 

I picked this way up because this is the way I came down into San Jose at the end of my cross country trip in 2011.  So this feels a little bit like resuming that trip from where I left off.  A little bit. 

Down the coast

After a couple years of month-long trips, I'm back to a ~10 day trip this year.  I'm certainly not complaining - it's been a big, busy year and we've welcomed our daughter Abigail, who turned 9 months old just the other day.  (We have plans for a trip with her next year).

One reason for this route is a high scenery-to-planning ratio.  The Pacific Coast Highway might be the most beautiful ride there is, and also requires minimal route planning - get to Highway 1, head south.  That's it!  Perfect for a tour that never really got planned beyond boxing up the bike and buying the Adventure Cycling map (so I know where the hiker/biker campgrounds are).

So, as nice as those monthlong tours were, I'm extremely grateful to have the opportunity for even a shorter one this year, and I'll be sure to make the most of it.